Với bộ sưu tập Celine Nam Xuân Hè 2027, Michael Rider chọn hệ ngôn ngữ mới cho hình ảnh nam giới, với “cứng cáp & mềm mại” không còn là hai cực đối lập mà trở thành một trạng thái chuyển động liên tục. Ở đó, sự cứng cáp và mềm mại cùng tồn tại như những mắt xích trong cùng một cơ thể, khi thì được kiểm soát, khi thì buông lỏng.
“Strong and soft” – Just two words but enough to encapsulate Michael Rider’s entire vision for the Celine man in Spring/Summer 2027. Strength and softness, instead of standing at opposite ends, go together like opposite forces of attraction but nourish each other, creating a state of masculinity that is no longer framed by familiar definitions.
This is also Rider’s first independent men’s fashion collection for the fashion house, shown on the last day of Paris Fashion Week, as a way for men to assert themselves through clothing. He approached the collection as a more conceptual line, rooted in a core concept: authenticity.
In that world, summer exists as a state of life. It is the moment when one leaves with a light suitcase, keeping only the essentials; is the journey back to familiar places but with a changed perspective, or sometimes the decision to step completely into an unknown land. From that spirit, each design seems born from the experience of movement, from the feeling of being outdoors, openness to the surrounding environment and the ability to let go of things that are no longer necessary.
Michael Rider started to create the shape of the collection from the basic prototypes of men’s wardrobe such as blazers, jackets, tailored pants, V-neck sweaters but did not stop at reinterpretation. He puts them into question: proportions are shifted, rules are loosened, and familiar structures are constantly stretched and released. The jackets are shortened closer to the waist, the shape sometimes tightens neatly, sometimes opens up into soft blocks with rich falls. Silk puffy pants appear alongside crisp, structured blazers, proving that elegance and spontaneity can coexist in a single language.
The collection is the perfect balance between discipline and freedom. The jackets are processed with precision in the form-fitting technique next to lightweight shirts with unexpected openings; Ritual details are removed from their original context and incorporated into everyday life; The cummerbund belt that originally belonged to the tuxedo has been transformed into a casual accessory, worn loosely over knitwear.
Color language also plays a leading role in this season’s collection. Black converses with white, camel and soft buttery yellow tones, creating a calm visual background, occasionally broken by accents of strong reds, deep burgundies and jewel tones. The same dialogue continues in the material. Wool blends, soft silks, structured leathers and ultra-lightweight fabrics are juxtaposed in a constant state of exchange of surface and weight.
Accessories in the collection also open up a more personal level of meaning. Pins, small accessories and details reminiscent of family heirlooms or souvenirs brought back from different journeys appear as breaks in the precise tailoring structure. They act like pieces of memory that are cut out and then reattached to the surface of the outfit. Rider calls them “heirlooms” and “lucky shirts” – designs that carry traces of personal experience, as if clothes can preserve the passage of time.
Lesson: Hoang Bao – Fashion Columnist
