Simon Porte Jacquemus returns to his most original inspirations in the Spring Summer 2027 collection called “Le Bonheur”. Performed on the windswept rocky shores of Île Rousse, Corsica, the premiere took place amid an almost pristine Mediterranean landscape.
The men’s and women’s fashion catwalks opened in the open air, with sailboats offshore forming the names of fashion houses on the horizon. The event gathered many prominent faces such as Isabelle Huppert, Manon Bannerman of Katseye and Korean actor Park Seo Joon. The show marked a step into the field of cosmetics and perfume through cooperation with L’Oréal. In that spirit, Jacquemus emphasized returning to the fundamental identity, while reconnecting the brand with natural elements.
The women’s designs show a clear step forward in the technique and precision of the atelier, as graphic shapes are juxtaposed with lightweight, movement-rich silhouettes. Models emerged from the island’s iconic white lighthouse, showing off crisp cotton poplin shirtdresses, light bubble skirts, and taffeta palazzo pants that flared out like evening gowns. The tank top is reinterpreted through many contrasting materials, from light see-through organza to paper-thin processed leather. Besides, there are column-shaped bustiers with minimalist cuts and high back slits, and flowing maxi skirts dotted with delicate feathers. Although harsh weather conditions with high winds and a record heat wave made the space difficult to control, the show still ended impressively when model Athéna Accorsi – daughter of actress and supermodel Laetitia Casta – completed the catwalk amid almost unpredictable natural elements.
In men’s clothing, Jacquemus continues to exploit the minimalist resort spirit. Menswear is built on fluidity of movement and lightness of fabric, from soft flowing wool caftans to unstructured suits. Standout designs include barrel-cut organza pants with contrasting hems, and see-through nylon suits, in which the blazer is processed so that it can be tucked neatly into the elastic puff waistband. The combination of street-inspired proportions and high-end processing techniques creates a wardrobe that is both accessible and suitable for an upscale coastal resort setting.
Accessories add a layer of playful and sensual energy, inspired by summer cuisine and fresh fruits. Mini conical straw hats appear next to soft flat ballet flats with a color palette reminiscent of ripe peaches or cake. The appearance of Alizée, the Y2K pop icon associated with French culture in the early 2000s, further emphasized the local nature of the event, while expanding Corsica’s image as a global fashion destination.
This season, Jacquemus builds a seamless style ecosystem. “Le Bonheur” is therefore a way to feel about summer, the seaside and the joy of reconnecting with primitive things.
Lesson: Hoang Bao – Fashion Columnist
