Nếu bộ sưu tập Alta Moda 2026 tại Radicepura mở ra một giấc mộng về những nữ thần trên đỉnh Olympus hạ phàm, thì sang Alta Sartoria tại Nhà hát Hy Lạp – La Mã cổ ở Taormina, Dolce&Gabbana lại dẫn khán giả bước vào một thế giới của sự kịch tính.
As dusk gradually gives way to night, hundreds of candles light up the steps of the ancient theater. In that moment, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana turned the thousand-year-old stone catwalk into a grand opera scene, where the masculine beauty of Sicilian gentlemen was guided by the quintessence of traditional craftsmanship. The night opened with a stage performance before the collection appeared, inspired by the verismo opera “Cavalleria Rusticana” composed by composer Pietro Mascagni in 1890. Verismo is an artistic trend aimed at everyday life, exploiting human conflicts with a realistic perspective.
Farmers, fishermen, charioteers, shepherds and widows wearing black lace step out onto the stage. Each character represents a slice of life, but when they step on stage together, they create a picture of a unified community. There, social order, ritual and memory are closely connected. That setting makes the audience feel like they are watching a complete opera, instead of waiting for a pure fashion show. Only when the drama ended did the first designs appear. The models leisurely entered the stage looking like prestigious guests attending an opera night: wearing tailored coats, holding sturdy leather handbags and wearing knee-high riding boots.
This season, the collection opens a dialogue between the heritage of Sicilian aristocratic residences and the spirit of Italian Baroque. Based on that inspiration, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana built a tailoring language with shapes that move with the body, dramatic structures and are not influenced by the minimalist spirit that dominates contemporary fashion. First of all, there is the opera gown. It became the opening point for the Alta Sartoria 2026 story this time. Inside is an aristocratic suit with a classic shape, the outside is covered with ground-length black velvet. On the velvet surface, embossed gold thread embroidery lines the shoulders and hem, recreating Baroque motifs that often appear in palace interiors and ceremonial costumes. The overcoat compliments a precisely tailored double-breasted waistcoat and white scarf, completing the image of a gentleman entering the opera house.
The spirit of the verismo opera characters continues to be transformed through black woven sweaters, with gold medals and chains pinned directly to the chest and shoulders. Instead of playing a decorative role, these details feel like symbols of power worn on the body. Paired with dark patterned jacquard pants and matching boots, the overall look is approachable enough to wear, but carries the weight of history and tradition for everyday wear.
One of the most expressive designs in the collection is an ivory sleeveless shirt treated like a layer of soft armor. Yellow braid and embossed embroidery shape the front body with symmetrical lines, reminiscent of ceremonial armor in classical art. The highlight lies in the cream-colored belt tied at the waist, ending with a tassel that moves with each step. Below, silver and gold brocade pants reflected the light from the stage.
Besides the language of tailoring and the Baroque spirit, the collection also returns to memories associated with Sicilian life: the linen that has been preserved for generations, the craftsmanship in each family and the religious rituals that have shaped the island’s identity. It is these cultural materials that become the basis for many of the designs in the collection. The neatly tailored black velvet jacket evokes the handmade linens that were once considered a family heirloom in Sicilian families. On the velvet background, clusters of flowers embroidered with white thread stand out like traces of time left on the old fabric. Along the lapel and sleeves, the lace pattern is finished using the famous traditional Italian Cantù technique with a sophisticated pattern structure created entirely by hand.
If linen sheets tell the story of family memories, then burgundy red velvet designs take the stage back to the space of Italian royalty. These designs are covered with gold thread embroidery that simulates gold leaf motifs, a technique that appears in ceremonial costumes and palace interiors. The velvet waistband ends with a golden tassel, creating a highlight for the silhouette that elongates with each step.
Closing the performance, the clergy appeared in the melody of a funeral march, like the last chapter of “Cavalleria Rusticana”. The tragic atmosphere that covered the stage all night suddenly disappeared when Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana and nearly 100 models walked down the stone steps of the ancient theater. They stopped to chat, laugh and take pictures with guests, returning Taormina to the present rhythm of life. In just a few minutes, Sicily’s stage that once held honor, love and tragedy became a place where fashion, people and heritage connected. Perhaps this is the ending that is both close and stays longer in the memories of those present.
Lesson: Hoang Bao – Fashion Columnist
