H08 Squelette proves that Hermès can completely confidently compete in the world of high-end watches, promising to be a booming year for Hermès’ watchmaking segment.
The French luxury fashion house opens a new direction with the skeleton version of the H08 collection. This is not the first time this product line has been equipped with a high-end movement – previously in 2023, the company introduced a monopusher chronograph version – but this launch clearly shows the direction the brand is pursuing.
Many high-end watchmakers have skeletons, but with Hermès, this design has a special meaning. That skeleton technique was originally invented in the 18th century in France, not Switzerland, which also reflects the brand’s “minimalist yet sophisticated” philosophy.
However, “stripping” a watch down to its bare minimum is not easy. Even though materials have been removed, the exposed mechanical structure sometimes makes the design confusing, even making it difficult to tell the time. Hermès solved this problem with a minimalist design inspired by urban architecture instead of the elaborate baroque curves often found in skeleton watches. The watch hands and embossed Arabic numerals are coated with Super-LumiNova to increase visibility.
The skeleton dial and watch case are crafted from titanium, creating a significant challenge for the production process. Although light and durable, titanium is a notoriously difficult material to machine, requiring more meticulous steps to create precise edges. This new structure also required a completely new apparatus. The H1978S movement – a reference to the year Hermès established its watchmaking facility in Biel, Switzerland – is an upgraded version of its predecessor, increasing the power reserve time from 50 to 60 hours. The durability of the apparatus has been tested through simulation equivalent to 10 years of use, to ensure resistance over time. Unlike skeleton watches, which are quite fragile, the H08 Squelette can be worn when skiing, jogging, cycling or swimming (water resistance reaches 100 meters and is equipped with a threaded crown).
“This is the first time this new generation of movements has appeared in our collections, and it arrives in a skeletonized version in titanium,” said Hermès Watchmaking CEO Laurent Dordet. “Not all of our future movements will be made of titanium or skeletonized, but they will all be part of this generation of movements – more efficient, more durable, anti-magnetic, and many other improvements.”
As a lifestyle brand, Hermès’ approach to watchmaking still retains its own uniqueness: design and creativity always come first, while technical elements will be developed later. Meanwhile, in Switzerland, this order of priorities is often the opposite, and that difference becomes a strength instead of a limitation.
That difference is creating a big buzz, especially in the US market, where Mr. Dordet said the H08 has become one of the brand’s main and most successful watch product lines. With the launch of the H08 Squelette, Hermès is proving that the brand has the guts to compete with even the most demanding and sophisticated segment of the Swiss watchmaking industry.
Lesson: Navigator Media
